29日，戴比爾斯集團(tuán)宣布推出一家名為L(zhǎng)ightbox Jewelry的新公司，該公司將于9月份開(kāi)始銷(xiāo)售合成鉆石（實(shí)驗(yàn)室生長(zhǎng)的鉆石）首飾，為消費(fèi)者提供比現(xiàn)更便宜的高品質(zhì)合成鉆石。

       Lightbox Jewelry的報(bào)價(jià)表：合成鉆石價(jià)格為0.25ct的鉆石200美元（約全1400元人民幣），1.00ct的800美元（約全5600人民幣），并且這些合成鉆石包括藍(lán)色、粉色的彩色鉆石。

       戴比爾斯（De Beers）公司還保證，Lightbox Jewelry公司投入市場(chǎng)的所有0.2ct以上的合成都有特殊的識(shí)別標(biāo)志。

           戴比爾斯原文如下：

       為什么要賣(mài)合成鉆石？

       New strategy will undercut prices of lab-grown diamonds

Company had long vowed never to sell man-made diamond jewelryDe Beers, which almost single-handedly created the allure of diamonds as rare, expensive and the symbol of eternal love, now wants to sell you some party jewelry that is anything but.

       新戰(zhàn)略將降低實(shí)驗(yàn)室生產(chǎn)的鉆石的價(jià)格。

       公司早就發(fā)誓永遠(yuǎn)不賣(mài)人造鉆石首飾。戴比爾斯幾乎是單槍匹馬地創(chuàng)造了鉆石的魅力，因?yàn)樗∮校嘿F，象征著永恒的愛(ài)情，現(xiàn)在，它想賣(mài)給你一些“派對(duì)”上的珠寶，這絕不是什么都不可能的。

       The company announced today that it will start selling man-made diamond jewelry at a fraction of the price of mined gems, marking a historic shift for the world’s biggest diamond miner, which vowed for years that it wouldn’t sell stones created in laboratories. The strategy is designed to undercut rival lab-diamond makers, who having been trying to make inroads into the $80 billion gem industry.De Beers will target younger spenders with its new diamond brand and try to capture customers that have been resistant to splurging on expensive jewelry. The company is betting that it can split the market -- with mined gems in luxury settings and engagement rings at the top, and lab-made fashion jewelry aimed at millennials at the bottom.

       該公司今天宣布，將開(kāi)始以開(kāi)采鉆石的一小部分價(jià)格銷(xiāo)售人造鉆石首飾，這標(biāo)志著這家全球最大鉆石礦商的歷史性轉(zhuǎn)變。這家全球最大的鉆石礦商多年來(lái)一直發(fā)誓不會(huì)出售實(shí)驗(yàn)室生產(chǎn)的鉆石。該戰(zhàn)略旨在削弱競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手實(shí)驗(yàn)室-鉆石制造商，他們一直試圖打入價(jià)值800億美元的寶石行業(yè)。戴比爾斯將以新的鉆石品牌為目標(biāo)，瞄準(zhǔn)年輕的消費(fèi)者，并試圖吸引那些不愿在昂貴珠寶上揮霍的客戶。該公司押注的是，它可以分割市場(chǎng)-在奢華的環(huán)境下開(kāi)采寶石，頂部是訂婚戒指，底層是實(shí)驗(yàn)室制作的針對(duì)千禧一代的時(shí)尚首飾。

       ‘Not Special’

       “Lab grown are not special, they’re not real, they’re not unique. You can make exactly the same one again and again,” Bruce Cleaver, chief executive officer of De Beers, said in an interview Tuesday.

       “非特殊” 

       實(shí)驗(yàn)室生長(zhǎng)的寶石并不特殊，它們不是真實(shí)的，也不是獨(dú)一無(wú)二的。你可以一次又一次地做同樣的事情，“戴比爾斯首席執(zhí)行官布魯斯·克萊弗(BruceCleaver)周二接受采訪時(shí)說(shuō)。

       Unlike imitation gems such as cubic zirconia, diamonds grown in labs have the same physical characteristics and chemical makeup as mined stones. They’re made from a carbon seed placed in a microwave chamber and superheated into a glowing plasma ball. The process creates particles that can eventually crystallize into diamonds in weeks. The technology is so advanced that experts need a machine to distinguish between synthesized and mined gems.

       與人造寶石如立方氧化鋯不同，在實(shí)驗(yàn)室中生長(zhǎng)的鉆石具有與開(kāi)采的石頭相同的物理特性和化學(xué)成分。它們是由放置在微波室中的碳種子制成的，過(guò)熱后會(huì)變成一個(gè)發(fā)光的等離子球。這個(gè)過(guò)程產(chǎn)生的粒子最終會(huì)在幾周內(nèi)結(jié)晶成鉆石。這項(xiàng)技術(shù)是如此先進(jìn)，以至于專(zhuān)家們需要一臺(tái)機(jī)器來(lái)區(qū)分合成寶石和開(kāi)采寶石。

       A host of lab-grown diamond makers and retailers have sprung up in recent years. Diamond Foundry, one of the biggest producers, grows diamonds in a California laboratory and has been backed by Leonardo DiCaprio. Warren Buffett’s Helzberg’s Diamond Shops Inc. also sells the stones.

       近年來(lái)，大量實(shí)驗(yàn)室培育的鉆石生產(chǎn)商和零售商紛紛涌現(xiàn)。鉆石鑄造公司是美國(guó)最大的鉆石生產(chǎn)商之一，在加州的一個(gè)實(shí)驗(yàn)室里生產(chǎn)鉆石，并得到了萊昂納多·迪卡普里奧的支持。沃倫·巴菲特(Warren Buffett)旗下的Helzberg鉆石店公司也出售這些鉆石。

       Customers are currently “confused” by the difference between mined and lab-produced diamonds, Cleaver said. De Beers is hoping to create big price gap with its new product, which will sell under the name Lightbox in the U.S. A 1-carat man-made diamond sells for about $4,000 and a similar natural diamond fetches roughly $8,000. The lab diamonds from De Beers will sell for about $800 a carat.

       Cleaver說(shuō)，客戶目前對(duì)所開(kāi)采的鉆石和實(shí)驗(yàn)室生產(chǎn)的鉆石之間的差異感到“困惑”.戴比爾斯希望與其新產(chǎn)品創(chuàng)造巨大的價(jià)格差距，新產(chǎn)品將在美國(guó)以Lightbox的名義銷(xiāo)售。一顆1克拉人造鉆石的售價(jià)約為4000美元，而類(lèi)似的天然鉆石售價(jià)約為8000美元。來(lái)自戴比爾斯的實(shí)驗(yàn)室鉆石將以每克拉800美元的價(jià)格出售。

       Lowest Cost

       Still, De Beers says that its move isn’t to disrupt existing lab-diamond producers, but create a small, profitable business in its own right.

       最低成本

       盡管如此，戴比爾斯說(shuō)，其舉措并不是破壞現(xiàn)有的實(shí)驗(yàn)室鉆石生產(chǎn)商，而是創(chuàng)造一個(gè)小的，有利可圖的業(yè)務(wù)本身。

       Given we are the lowest-cost producer, we can make a good business out of this,” Cleaver said. “We have the tools, why wouldn’t we do this?”

       考慮到我們是成本最低的生產(chǎn)商，我們可以利用這一點(diǎn)來(lái)創(chuàng)造一個(gè)好生意?！翱死锔フf(shuō)?！拔覀冇泄ぞ?，為什么不這么做呢？”

       De Beers is so adamant that the man-made diamonds are not competing with mined stones that it will not grade them in the traditional way. That’s a stark contrast to current man-made sellers who offer ratings such as clarity and color, replicating terminology used for natural stones.

       戴比爾斯非常堅(jiān)定，以至于人造鉆石沒(méi)有與開(kāi)采出來(lái)的鉆石競(jìng)爭(zhēng)，因此它不會(huì)按照傳統(tǒng)的方式對(duì)它們進(jìn)行評(píng)級(jí)。這與目前的人造賣(mài)家形成了鮮明的對(duì)比，后者提供清晰度和顏色等評(píng)級(jí)，復(fù)制了天然寶石的術(shù)語(yǔ)。

       “We’re not grading our lab-grown diamonds because we don’t think they deserve to be graded,” Cleaver said. “They’re all the same.”

       “我們沒(méi)有對(duì)實(shí)驗(yàn)室生產(chǎn)的鉆石進(jìn)行評(píng)級(jí)，因?yàn)槲覀冋J(rèn)為它們不應(yīng)該被分級(jí)，”克里弗說(shuō)?！八麄兌家粯印?/p>

       The pricing strategy will also be different. De Beers plans to charge $200 for a quarter-carat, $400 for a half and $800 for a carat, another sharp break from natural stones that rise exponentially in price the bigger the diamond gets.

       定價(jià)策略也會(huì)有所不同。戴比爾斯計(jì)劃對(duì)四分之一克拉的鉆石收取200美元，半克拉400美元，一克拉800美元，這也是鉆石越大，天然寶石的價(jià)格就會(huì)指數(shù)上升的另一個(gè)急劇突破。

       Man-Made Gems

       While De Beers has never sold man-made diamonds for jewelry before, it’s very good at making them. The company’s Element Six unit is one of the world’s leading producers of synthetic diamonds, which are mostly used for industrial purposes. It has also been producing gem-quality stones for years to help it tell the difference  between natural and man-made types and to reassure consumers that they’re buying the real thing.

       人造寶石

       雖然戴比爾斯以前從未出售過(guò)人造鉆石飾品，但它非常擅長(zhǎng)制作它們。該公司的Element Six是世界上主要的人造鉆石生產(chǎn)商之一，這些鉆石主要用于工業(yè)用途。多年來(lái)，該公司也一直在生產(chǎn)寶石質(zhì)量的寶石，以幫助它分辨出天然和人造寶石的不同之處，并讓消費(fèi)者放心，他們正在購(gòu)買(mǎi)真正的鉆石。

       Man-made gems currently make up a small part of the diamond market, but demand is increasing. Global diamond production was about 142 million carats last year, according to analyst Paul Zimnisky. That compares with lab production of less than 4.2 million carats, according to Bonas & Co.

       人造寶石目前只占鉆石市場(chǎng)的一小部分，但需求卻在增長(zhǎng).據(jù)分析師PaulZimnisky介紹，去年全球鉆石產(chǎn)量約為1.42億克拉。而根據(jù)Bonas&Co的數(shù)據(jù)，實(shí)驗(yàn)室生產(chǎn)的克拉數(shù)還不到420萬(wàn)克拉。

       De Beers has been researching lab-made diamonds since the end of World War II and accelerated its work after a Swedish company synthesized the first diamond in 1953. The company has focused on lab diamonds for industrial uses, but also kept investing in technology for jewelry-grade gems.

       自從第二次世界大戰(zhàn)結(jié)束以來(lái)，戴比爾斯一直在研究實(shí)驗(yàn)室制造的鉆石，并在1953年瑞典公司合成了第一顆鉆石之后加快了工作。該公司專(zhuān)注于工業(yè)用途的實(shí)驗(yàn)室鉆石，但也不斷投資于珠寶級(jí)寶石的技術(shù)。

       The shift to lab-diamond jewelry comes at a sensitive time for De Beers and its relationship with Botswana, the source of three-quarters of its diamonds. The two have a sales agreement that lets the company market and sell gems from Botswana, giving De Beers its power over global prices. The deal will soon be up for negotiation and Botswana is likely to push for more concessions.

       向?qū)嶒?yàn)室鉆石首飾的轉(zhuǎn)變，正值戴比爾斯及其與博茨瓦納關(guān)系的敏感時(shí)刻，博茨瓦納是其四分之三的鉆石來(lái)源。這兩家公司有一份銷(xiāo)售協(xié)議，允許該公司銷(xiāo)售博茨瓦納的寶石，從而使戴比爾斯在全球價(jià)格上擁有強(qiáng)大的權(quán)力。該協(xié)議不久將開(kāi)始談判，博茨瓦納可能會(huì)推動(dòng)更多的讓步。

       On Tuesday, De Beers said it had extensive talks with Botswana about the decision to sell man-made diamonds and the country supports the move.

       (Updates with CEO comments from fourth paragraph.)

       周二，戴比爾斯表示，他們與博茨瓦納就出售人造鉆石的決定進(jìn)行了廣泛的談判，該國(guó)支持這一決定。(更新第四段的CEO評(píng)論。)

       不過(guò)，也有行業(yè)人士認(rèn)為：???????

       1、戴比爾斯推出的這個(gè)新品牌只是一個(gè)飾品品牌，請(qǐng)注意，是飾品不是珠寶。跟中國(guó)義烏、廣州等地小商品市場(chǎng)上推出的飾品本質(zhì)上沒(méi)什么兩樣，無(wú)非是選的是實(shí)驗(yàn)室培育出的鉆石而已。

       2、目前只是針對(duì)美國(guó)市場(chǎng)。中國(guó)市場(chǎng)因?yàn)閲?guó)家珠寶玉石質(zhì)量監(jiān)督檢驗(yàn)中心（簡(jiǎn)稱(chēng)NGTC），國(guó)內(nèi)消費(fèi)者根深蒂固的對(duì)天然鉆石和培育鉆石或合成鉆石不存在混淆問(wèn)題。

       3、在所有的0.2ct或以上的實(shí)驗(yàn)室合成鉆石內(nèi)部永久性的印上了Lightbox標(biāo)識(shí)。該標(biāo)識(shí)不為肉眼可見(jiàn)，但在放大鏡下觀察  清晰可辨。

       4、價(jià)格只與重量有關(guān)，和其他無(wú)關(guān)。零售價(jià)格為200美元（0.25ct）到800美元（1ct）不等。也就是說(shuō)鉆石的4C標(biāo)準(zhǔn)不適用這類(lèi)鉆石，所以這類(lèi)鉆石也不會(huì)有鉆石分級(jí)證書(shū)。

       5、不銷(xiāo)售成品裸鉆。也就是說(shuō)市場(chǎng)上可以見(jiàn)到的只能是鑲嵌好的成品首飾，或者叫飾品更合適。